Few places anywhere offer such treasures as the Yucatan -- dazzling archaeological remains, good snorkeling and diving, an outstanding variety of birds and a thriving culture with ancient roots. And it's only a few hours away from those of us marooned in New York.

It's also a region that has inspired great books -- from John Lloyd Stephens classic account of discovery (reissued with Catherwood's original engravings) to Proskouriakoff's fine reconstructions of the Maya world and Peter Canby's binern narrative of his time among the Maya of Mexico, Guatemala and Belize.

Pack a few field guides, your snorkel, binoculars and walking boots. Off the main tourist track between Cancun and Tulúm, there's much to explore. Barely reconstructed, sprawling over acres of dry deciduous forest and with many fewer visitors than star attractions such as Chichén Itzá, Cobá is a favorite site. It's a place where you can wander shady forest trails alone, come upon chattering turquoise-browed motmots and relax at the end of the day at a restored hacienda which once housed teams of archaeologists. Head south along Yucatan's Caribbean coast for world-class beaches, Chinchorro Reef and a handful of mostly small-scale resorts.

If you've got the luxury of time avoid bus tours, spend the middle of the day in a hammock and explore the archaeological sites early or late in the day, when its much less crowded, the amazing stonework stands out in relief, and you can profitably bird watch. You know what they say about mad dogs and Englishman (and cruise ship passengers).

Darrel Schoeling
Darrel@longitudebooks.com