A richly detailed and personal portrait of Sicily by an American writer who settled on the island with her Sicilian husband in 1962 and stayed for 20 years. Strong on the delights of rural life, her book takes the form of a yearlong journal, capturing the spirit of the people and land. It provides a deep understanding of daily life and traditions -- an excellent antidote to persistent myths of mafiosos and backwards peasants.  (ITL03, $14.95)