An exhilarating, erudite guide to Buenos Aires as it has been portrayed by writers, poets and thinkers. Divided geographically, it is a cultural history of the city, its people and character. Wilson quotes writers, internationally famous and locally known, who conjure the geography and mood of the city from its buses and historic rattletrap subway to the cafes, tango, food and smells, and architecture. There's hardly a street corner, building or park that doesn't have literary associations brought forth in this guide.  (ARG21, $15.00)