A classic mix of lore, literary asides, recipes and enthusiasm for the food and culture of France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Greece and the Middle East. Published in the gloom of post-WWII Britain, David's tribute brims with affection for the strongly flavored food of the Mediterranean. This is the art -- not the science -- of cooking, and her evocative recipes are inspiring. You might, however, have some trouble with this pretty little paperback in the kitchen. You'll have to wrestle it open on the counter.  (MED71, $14.95)