A delightful, warmly anecdotal book, highly recommended for anyone touring the wine regions of France. Its author, a wine importer, is head over heels in love with French wine -- and those who produce it. Divided geographically, the book brings the domains and appellations of French wine into full-blown life. His portraits of the grand personalities who make wine are priceless. With black and white photographs of his friends and colleagues, including the venerable Madame de Lacaussade of Chateau de l'Hospital in the Graves district near Bordeaux.  (FRN72, $18.00)