Dragged unwittingly with his wife to Kiribati, the author settled down to explore the island, its eccentric inhabitants, issues and challenges in this hilarious, disturbing first book. The account details his misadventures with pollution, angry dogs and other island disasters. It's hardly paradise. This isolated group of 33 atolls was known as the Gilbert Islands until independence from Britain in 1979.  (PAC146, $12.95)

Best of 2004