Two young English women at large on the Italian Riviera -- or so thought the author and her sister when they ventured from England to Liguria to graft roses with the locals. They did, in fact, fall in love with the place -- a more complex and interesting Italy than that of their romantic imagination. They end up buying a house and learning the local customs and eccentricities of their neighbors in Diano San Pietro. Hawes' account of her experiences is refreshingly candid.  (ITL539, $14.95)