A year's sojourn in Old Delhi provides the springboard for a brilliant ramble through several thousand years of the city's history; architecture, art and literature are leavened and lightened by a mixture of the author's daily life. Any visitor will see a Delhi, New and Old, with fresh eyes after walking through the crowds on Chandni Chowk with the incomparable Dalrymple as guide.  (IDA06, $16.00)