Ever heard of the stylish, savory wines of Clos Triguedina -- or even of the Auxerrois grape (AKA Malbec) or of the ravages of phylloxera? Never mind. You'll still delight at Michael Sanders' absorbing account of the wine and winemakers of Cahors in Southwest France, where some families have held the same vineyards for generations. The book is a sequel of sorts to his warmly observed account of a year in the kitchen of La Recreation, also in the Lot (From Here, You Can't See Paris, FRN478, $13.95). Reservations recommended.  (FRN479, $13.95)