Grescoe, lucky man traveled the world for this book. Perhaps less fortuitously, it was in search of nine forbidden foods, some prohibited for absurd reasons (gum in Singapore) and others less than appetizing (bull's testicles in Spain). He's equally interested in governments and the psychology of prohibition as in the foodstuffs themselves. He's also a very good writer. This is an entertaining, enlightening journey through the world of forbidden pleasure.  (TVL83, $14.95)