Haiti features prominently in Patrick Leigh Fermor's
effortlessly erudite chronicle of a hop, skip and jump around the Caribbean with two friends (including Joan, later his wife), originally published in 1950. Just out in a new edition, the book offers the twin pleasures of a portrait of the islands before the advent of modern tourism (the threesome stayed in manor houses, not in resorts) and of PLF's razor-sharp opinions. Barbados, for example he found dull, staid, compared to the multi-hued glories (and people) of Trinidad. "We took advantage of an introduction from friends in England," he reports in his chapter on Dominica. 'If you want to see the Caribs,' Mrs.